A martini, mixed however you like (as long as it’s stirred, not shaken), will never go out of style
Martinis tell time. They’re not to be rushed or wasted; you’re supposed to savor them, in sips that set their own clock. Martinis, like moments, have ephemeral power. “The proper union of gin and vermouth is a great and sudden glory; it is one of the happiest marriages on earth, and one of the shortest lived,” Bernard DeVoto, the essayist and martini apostle, wrote. “The fragile tie of ecstasy is broken in a few minutes, and thereafter there can be no remarriage.
Martinis became popular almost immediately, mythologized by literature and film, contemporaneously and nostalgically, with poetic observation and absurd exaggeration. They’ve had high and low points. Ernest Hemingway, famously, in: “They made me feel civilized.” Nikita Khrushchev, cheekily, during the Cold War: They’re “America’s most lethal weapon.
The tendency toward fastidious martini orders is maybe a function of how little there is to a martini, and how much weighs on what’s there. I tend to focus on the vermouth. Simonson explains that the color of an early martini resembled that of a Manhattan, its Irish twin, because whiskey then was lighter and vermouth was amber. Ogden Nash’s “” would have been faithfully descriptive, and not too dangerous.
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