Is L.A. losing its Italian restaurants run by actual Italians?

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Is L.A. losing its Italian restaurants run by actual Italians?
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Plus, Roy Choi's new primal tacos, Cambodian beef jerky, Joe Jost's pickled eggs and the man who ate everything at the Cheesecake Factory in this week's Tasting Notes.

Italian days ... beef jerky and pickled eggs ... Roy Choi's new primal tacos ... and the man who ate everything at the Cheesecake Factory. I'm Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week's Tasting Notes. I visited an old friend of a restaurant recently. One I hadn't checked on since before the pandemic.

But as I ate from a bowl of beautiful pisarei — tender bread gnocchetti tossed with duck sugo — and sipped one of the more affordable Nebbiolos from the steep vineyards of the Valle d'Aosta chosen by the gracious Diamond-Ferdinandi, I thought, yes, it's a good thing that we Angelenos have learned to love and cook great regional Italian cuisine. At the same time, I hope a new wave of young Italian chefs will find their way to L.A. and bring a whole new set of ideas for us to explore.

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