From cool climates to rising costs, the popular wine is facing new challenges
The success of collectable and age-worthy cabernet sauvignon-based wines made by celebrated wineries and chateaux in Napa and Bordeaux inspired many producers to have a go. As a result, cabernet sauvignon ranks as the most widely planted wine grape variety, covering roughly 5 per cent of the world’s vineyard acreage.
France and the United States lead the way in cabernet sauvignon production, with significant volumes produced each year in Australia, Argentina, Chile, China and South Africa. The best bottles continue to be expensive, given the costs of production in the vineyard and winery. Extensive aging in oak barrels is necessary to tame cabernet’s firm tannins, make for a more approachable wine, with escalating costs for purchasing new oak barrels and aging wine for 18 months or longer prior to release.
Although cabernet sauvignon vines grow well in warm and cool climates, it can be a struggle to ripen the fruit if the weather is too cool. The ripe cassis, blackberry and cherry flavours of cabernet sauvignon appeal to a wide variety of tastes. Underripe flavours, often described as leafy, herbal or bell pepper, don’t impress many wine drinkers.
The challenges facing cabernet sauvignon producers mean it’s rare to encounter a wine made exclusively from the grape. Most bottles that declare cabernet sauvignon on the label are blended wines. In the United States, a winery can label its wine as cabernet sauvignon if the variety makes up at least 75 per cent of the blend; other countries insist upon a ratio of 85 per cent.
Value hunters are better served by inexpensive red wines produced from grenache, malbec or gamay, which produce softer and fruity styles of wines. Cheap cabernet sauvignon can be tough work – dry, savoury wines that need to be tamed by a meal or, perhaps, rimming your wine glass with salt. When I find successful examples, often from Chile, South Africa or Argentina, I’m sure to recommend them.
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