Meet the new guard of knitwear designers, including Nong Rak, Vaisseau, Hope Macaulay and Emma Gudmundson
is also focussed on the materials used to create her signature colossal knit sweaters, cardigans and accessories. Using 100 per cent merino wool and 100 per cent biodegradable nylon knitted by hand , Macaulay took three years of “trial and error” to develop her technique, but now has a booming made-to-order business from her own website and social channels, having become a favourite of every Gen-Z influencer around.
Macaulay’s biodegradable nylon “has been designed to be kinder to the planet and vegan friendly.” Using first-of-its-kind technology, it biodegrades in around five years when disposed of in landfills, compared to more than 50 years for synthetics in general. “Usually, the chemical structure of synthetic fibres does not allow for bacterial penetration, which makes the degradation process more complex and slower,” she explains.
Lawrence argues that disposable fashion culture has devalued craftsmanship; that garments should be valued related to the skills used to make them, which are currently “under-appreciated, which makes it easier for the consumer to discard things as there is no emotional attachment”. He praises designer Matty Bovan for producing his popular patchwork creations in-house, rather than contracting out to suppliers.
None of the knitters featured in this piece want to scale and grow their business in a way that would compromise their hand-made techniques and sustainable principles. Gudmundson is currently stocked at
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