Nudibranch, in the East Village, offers an Asian-inflected prix-fixe menu with many choices, including fried frogs’ legs, shrimp with granola, and cauliflower three ways.
The compact East Village restaurant Nudibranch is named for the soft-bodied gastropods, a category of sea slugs, that Jeff Kim, a chef and co-founder, spied when diving off the coast of Indonesia. To Kim, a former Momofuku busser who met his co-founders at kitchens around New York, nudibranchs—of which there are more than three thousand species—slink along the ocean floor with the same pluck that food establishments must harness when navigating the city’s brackish depths.
One of the delights of Nudibranch is its intrepid playfulness. Although the dishes tend to be Asian-inflected , Kim describes the menu’s influences as “crisscrossed New York.” Take the shrimp, which at first tastes like the Cantonese mainstay. At Nudibranch, walnuts are swapped for jazzy gems of granola that start off faintly sweet before crackling into heat and funk, a counterbalance to the richness of the aioli-coated shrimp.
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