Want to eat like the locals do in Sonora, Mexico? Stop by a Sonoran food truck for fish-free sushi rolls and boneless hot wings
that can be wrapped entirely in bacon as an upgrade.San Carlos Mariscos y CahuamantaThe famous Mar y Tierra roll at Tucson’s El Sushi De Papà food truck, Tucson’s buzziest newcomer. Sonoran sushi is not a Mexican-American invention, nor is it some jalapeno-laden riff on the rock and roll sushi craze of the late 1980s and ’90s — though its embrace of excess does hint at that era.
This style of Mexican sushi came to Sonora by way of Sinaloa, where, in the early 2000s, Mexican cooks who’d worked at Japanese restaurants in the U.S. began introducing fairly basic sushi rolls onto the menus of fashionable restaurants like El Farallón in the Sinaloan capital of Culiacán, and Que Rollo in Hermosillo.
In the last few years, a number of Mexican sushi restaurants have opened across the western U.S. — with mostly Sinaloan joints now found in cities like LA, San Diego, and. But Arizona is where Sonoran sushi has settled, including a handful of true specialists in Sunnyside catering to Sonoran immigrants craving a taste of their hometown’s hottest culinary trend.
Flamboyant creations like these are admittedly — proudly, even — far removed from the minimalist Japanese art that inspired them. But a dish with Japanese roots, American ingredients, and a Mexican origin story defies neat categorization.
truck. For the newly arrived Sonorans here, a bite or two of the utterly fish-free, steak-, chicken-, and chile-filled Vaquero Roll offers a rare, comforting taste of home — even more so with a pile of barbecue-slathered boneless on the side.San Carlos Mariscos y Cahuamanta,5420 S. 12th Ave.; no website
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