It's a marriage of traditional Peruvian ingredients with Japanese technique in the hybrid style of Nikkei cuisine. Our critic's review:
At Yapa, the new Japanese-Peruvian restaurant in Little Tokyo, cumbia music tumbles from the speakers and the most popular appetizer in the house is a dainty-looking plate of churros.
The unorthodox churros were my recent introduction to the cooking of Richie Lopez, who operates Yapa with partner Josh Goldman. A native of Lima, Peru, Lopez got his start in Los Angeles kitchens as a dishwasher, rising through the ranks under chef Ricardo Zarate at now-shuttered Peruvian hot spots like Mo-Chica and Paiche.
There are rousing takes on Peruvian staples like the bean-and-rice dish called tacu tacu, here spliced with Fresno chiles. A fancied-up lomo saltado, made with dry-aged rib-eye marinated in a sweetish soy sauce, is compulsively good over rice; it’s served with a tumbler bouquet of the crispiest French fries I’ve ever eaten.Lopez’s fanciful version of the mashed potato dish called causa is superb.
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