'[Rick] Owens’s work has always had a nakedness to it; to the sexual dynamic, to what constitutes beauty or ugliness, to age, to commentary on social and cultural injustice,' reflects Vogue's Mark Holgate (mhvogue).
Owens is shirtless, his sinewy torso set against a backdrop of a distressed and fractured gray wall. Through this juxtaposition, Corbijn tells the story of Owens: a New World designer, a product of body-conscious, goth-rock Los Angeles, transplanted to old-world Paris, where he has lived and worked since the early naughts.
Where then, does Owens’s physicality come into a notion of hope? Instead, Corbijn’s portrait delivers a fairly uncompromising message of what happens when one makes a near religious adherence to a truthful and honest body of work; what can result when you keep who you are, and your values, in mind. Owens’s work has always had a nakedness to it, to the sexual dynamic, to what constitutes beauty or ugliness, to age, to commentary on social and cultural injustice.
Only weeks before this portrait was taken, just as the Brett Kavanaugh Supreme Court hearings were unfolding in the United States, Owens had shown his spring 2019 collection, a powerful critique of the demonizing of women; in fact, his show was held on the day that Christine Blasey Ford would be providing testimony. That coincidence moved my Vogue Runway colleague Nicole Phelps to say, “Owens is an intuitive designer.
“Dark Victory,” by Nathan Heller, photographed by Anton Corbijn, was published in the March 2019 issue of the magazine.
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