Calling someone the “Julia Child of ____” suggests that the person will always chase Child’s level of name recognition, sometimes even in death
of obituaries for Hazan repeated this claim. The Jamaican chef Norma Shirley was, depending on whom you asked, either “the Julia Child of Jamaica” or “the Julia Child of the Caribbean,” and theThe term’s use in the paper of record as recently as last year shows it hasn’t disappeared from the cultural vernacular. This despite the fact that the Child comparison can do more to confuse than illuminate.
The “Julia Child of” phrase may have had its place in a bygone era of English-language food writing, in a time when its assumed audience belonged to the dominant culture and thus needed a familiar name like Child to process basic information, such as the fact that a woman’s work merited appreciation. But what may have once seemed like a form of flattery now reads more like a patronizing attempt to confer legitimacy upon female chefs, particularly those who belong to marginalized communities.
As Child’s profile continued to rise through television and more cookbooks in the 1970s, journalists continued to, bafflingly, compare her predecessors to her, as if they were somehow her subordinates. In 1970, TheA Book of Mediterranean FoodMastering the Art of French Cooking From today’s remove, such comparisons may seem silly to American cooks familiar with women like Kennedy, Waters, and Jaffrey, who can stand on their own. But the trend is also harmful, positioning these women as inherently less than Child, never her equal.
, the writer Luke Tsai noticed how often the American food media reduced her to the “Julia Child of Chinese cooking” after thereferred to her as such in 1971. In Taiwan, Tsai wrote, that dynamic gets inverted, with Child considered the Fu Pei-mei of America.earlier this year, the writer Abena Anim-Somuah offered a sharp skewering of the “Julia Child of” saying’s application to the aforementioned Edna Lewis. “While this phrase is used to make Ms.
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