How LA’s New Yangban Society Is Flipping the Script on Korean-American Fare

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How LA’s New Yangban Society Is Flipping the Script on Korean-American Fare
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Fine-dining alums Katianna and Jon Hong hope things get a little 'rowdier' at this new restaurant inspired by their mixed heritage.

“The second generation of Korean-Americans are coming of age,” John says. “They’re exploring fun ideas and thoughts. I think my parents’ generation was very much focused on immigrating, finding work, finding stability, finding opportunities for their children. What you’re seeing now is those kids going off and being more creative, having the luxury to be a little bit more free-thinking, risk-taking.

Yangban Society celebrates Katianna and John’s love of delis , but it also grew out of a trip that the Hongs took to Korea in 2012. Galvanized by what they ate and experienced, they decided to learn more about regional Korean food. “Our goal was to study Korean cuisine,” Katianna says. “And as much as we are always still learning and continuing our education, we started to realize that it felt a bit forced and wasn’t really us. So then it started kind of morphing into like, well, we can still be cooking with Korean ingredients and respecting the history of the cuisine but cooking in a way that makes sense to us and is more relevant.

So the Hongs, for example, are serving a Korean dumpling soup based on a matzo ball recipe from Katianna’s Jewish grandmother. Sometimes, of course, chefs follow a playbook and then realize they should create a new playbook. These former tweezer-food superstars are happy to have a counter-service restaurant with kimchi-and-pork-belly posole on the menu and milk-crate seating in the alley. They’re happy to let guests seat themselves in the two-floor space that was previously home to Lincoln Carson’s.

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