The Kardashian-Jenners owe a great debt to the Vanderbilts and other Robber Barons depicted in 'The Gilded Age'.
Every detail, from the imperceptible make-up behind her face covering to the fact that Kanye West had a hand in its design, was mined to the last. But while Kardashian is the subject of so much hype, she has agency. The stunt simultaneously proliferated her image and boosted the brand of Balenciaga: a commercial win-win.
The family became wealthier than the US treasury, but earning the respect of society was a different game. While their money was newly made, the Astors’ had been cemented a few decades earlier, owing to success in the fur industry.Mrs Astor, as Caroline Schermerhorn Astor was known, saw the Vanderbilts as flash and vulgar, and abstained from inviting Alva to her annual society ball. Thus, Alva’s mission became making Mrs Astor crack, at the expense of all else.
The divides between these competing groups revealed themselves through fashion . Where the earlier groups prided themselves on having little or no interest in clothing – considered vanity – the newest socialites went to the ends of the earth to appear richer than rich. “With each succeeding group, there was more and more interest in clothing and displays of wealth,” says Fine Collins. Access to and idolisation of Europe, its royals and aristocrats, distinguished high-fliers from has-beens.
, Alva’s daughter Consuelo writes of spring visits to Paris on her family’s new steamboat. “The Rue de la Paix was the fashionable shopping centre and names of the great dressmakers – Worth, Doucet, Rouff – were printed on small doors admitting one to modest shops. Inside, the array of lovely dresses, expensive furs and diaphanous lingerie fairly took one’s breath away,” she said.
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