Sizable stones continue to dominate Place Vendôme while jewelers like De Beers and Boucheron look at designs that can be shared.
This first chapter took the shape of transformable pieces composed of four strands, each representing a season and putting the accent on one of the jeweler’s goldsmithing techniques. It also marked the first time the three gold tones have been mixed onpieces that ranged from a “jacket” ring that could slip around a solitaire, dangling ear cuff and a four-strand necklace that could be separated into a shorter version and choker that could be worn independently from each other.
To challenge jewelry’s highly codified mores, the Boucheron way is to “not impose but propose strongly” from the choice of materials to the imagery, said Choisne during intimate presentation sessions, where the various wares were showcased on very Swinging Sixties outfits. Dior’s haute couture tradition and history continue to be a wellspring for Victoire de Castellane, a decade after Dear Dior and five years after Dior Dior Dior. On Jan. 22, the house presented the first chapter of Dearest Dior, a 77-piece evocation of lace that includes two high watchmaking automata designs that come alive at the press of the crown.
Francesca Amfitheatrof pushed further her exploration of the Destiny, Liberty, Fantasy and Radiance themes from Louis Vuitton’s Spirit high jewelry collection unveiled in June in Marrakesh. This layering of ear and jewels is something that houses have been playing with recently, spotted here and there throughout the week but also in Piaget’s Exalting Dance earring, unveiled in November as part of the third chapter of its Solstice high jewelry offering.
Out of the 40-odd pieces in Buccellati’s Macri collection presented in November at New York’s Whitney Museum, only a dozen arrived unsold in Paris. But it was enough to get a taste of the cocktail vibe of the finely wrought colorful rings, button earrings and pendant necklaces featuring semiprecious stones and even blue zircons from 3 to 15 carats in size.
As for the ocelli of a peacock’s feathered tail, it was executed as overlapping motifs in platinum, emeralds, diamonds and opals, with an onyx trim to give the ensemble the depth of the animal’s proud display.
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