“The design team at Helmut Lang heard the call of the sea this season.” See every look from the spring 2022 collection and read our full review:
The design team at Helmut Lang heard the call of the sea this season. Pictures of sailors and buoys were among the sources they pored over as they prepared a collection that had the requisite sailor pants and tops, but also broader takes on the theme, like the use of knotting and net. This tied in nicely with the season’s artistic “intervention” from the artist Maia Ruth Lee, who created a series of bound sculptures, “Bondage Baggage,” that incorporated salvaged fabric from the design studio.
With hybrid work models starting to be put in place at many companies, the team wanted to find an alternative to traditional office attire, specifically the suit. Their proposal is sets, which can be a jacket and pants or adjustable pieces, like pants with detachable panels, or vest/jacket combos. A water-repellent trench with a blue lining was a nice extension of the theme. Dresses with twisted straps or halters looked back to the spring 2005 collection, the last designed by Helmut Lang.
“Familiarity and newness,” was one of the designers’ aims. The challenge facing the brand in its current form is how to deal with its heritage. The label’s not in the business of reissuing the founder’s designs but iterating on them—from a distance. It’s been 16 years since Lang himself left the company, so what’s “familiar” now could be “Old Lang” or “After Lang.” It really depends on who is looking.
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