'If restaurants are about dreams, the corner of Melrose and Citrus is where they go to die.'
, a 4-month-old restaurant on Melrose Avenue where chef-owner Eric Bost creates a mix-and-match tasting menu: Diners choose four, six or nine courses from a list of 12 ever-changing dishes. “Fine dining” is such a squishy term these days, its definitions blurry in this age of culinary individualism. But however you might describe the place, Auburn warrants a splurge; Bost’s cooking stirs the emotions as grippingly as the intellect.
Michel Richard opened his first restaurant, Citrus, in the building in 1987; it was a huge deal in its day. Richard, who was born in Brittany and trained as a pastry chef, had come to Los Angeles in the 1970s and opened a pastry shop.
Richard went on to partner in many restaurants around the country; he died in Washington, D.C., in 2016. Citrus closed in 2001; the location took on a cursed reputation as it cycled through several ventures afterward.
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