Cooking the chicken legs over indirect heat gives them time to render fully and start to crisp so they won't become gluey when glazed.
1 lemongrass stalk, top third trimmed, tough outer layers removed, finely grated2 tsp. ground cuminPreparation
Prepare a grill for high indirect heat ; oil grate. Bring garlic, lemongrass, sugar, vinegar, red pepper flakes, cumin, black pepper, and 1/2 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally, and cook until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 8 minutes. Let cool and stir in fish sauce. Transfer half of sauce to a small bowl and set aside for serving.
Season chicken with salt. Place over indirect heat and cover grill with vent open and positioned over chicken. Grill, turning once or twice, until skin is browned and crisp and meat is nearly cooked through, 25–30 minutes. Uncover and move chicken to hotter part of grill. Continue to grill, turning often and basting with remaining sauce, until lacquered and lightly charred in places, 6–8 minutes longer. Serve with reserved sauce alongside.
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