Live-fire legend Francis Mallmann embraces vegetarian grilling in the hopes of helping the planet.
Photo: Excerpted from Green Fire by Francis Mallmann . Copyright © 2022. Photographs by William Herefordepisode, it's likely of the Argentine chef emerging, Dionysian, from a woodsmoke haze, bearing the reverently-charred remains of a whole beast, bird, or fish to a laden table. The smoke and showmanship haven't dissipated, but he would now like for you to roll back that footage and slightly re-imagine it.
A few catalysts sparked the change. For the better part of a decade, Mallmann has been receiving messages via social media from younger people who admire his elemental approach to cooking, but encourage him to delve more deeply into plant-based ingredients. During a recent visit to the Food & Wine offices in New York City, he explained, "Young people are saying master chef, we love your work, so inspiring to see your fires — by the way we are vegan or vegetarian, but we still like it.
This may seem like a seismic shift for a chef who — at least in his media portrayals — has seemed like an unapologetic avatar of fleshly pleasures, but his love of herbs, fruits, and vegetables is not just recently kindled. As a child, Mallmann's neighbor tended to his garden what seemed like day and night. Patagonia, he notes, is very remote, and their chats near the trees and beds seemed like a perfectly pleasant way to pass the time.
But for Mallmann, though appealing recipes abound for pumpkins, potatoes, artichokes, tomatoes, drinks, desserts, and more, it's the book's Ratatouille Tian and Churrasco recipe that is the greatest manifestation of this almost phoenix-like resurrection he wishes for the bounty of the planet. "It's got garlic and parsley, and of course, fresh breadcrumbs outside.
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