For Fluffy, Sweet Bread With a Cookie Crunch, Make Conchas

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For Fluffy, Sweet Bread With a Cookie Crunch, Make Conchas
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It's a fan favorite for a reason.

for concha-inspired slippers, apparel, and pillows—the concha has become the paragon of pan dulce, and there are now countless bakeries tapping into its enduring demand all over the US and the world.

If you ask me, you can judge any panadería by the quality of its conchas. And right now, there’s an exciting new wave of bakers who are rethinking the concha—simultaneously honoring its roots and stretching the definition of what a concha can be., a Mexican food pop-up located in the Pacific Northwest, cites this new generation of Latinx bakers as the reason for the concha’s continuing popularity.

For some Latinx bakers, making plant-based conchas is just as much a way to show the versatility of the concha as it is about embracing different dietary needs and preferences. Eliza M. Perez, a queer, nonbinary baker who runs the pop-up bakerybased out of San Antonio, says that making plant-based pan dulce is as easy as substituting vegan butter and soy milk for dairy.

“collaborative effort” with her partner, fellow chef Jonathan Ragsdale. “We really wanted to use uni, as it was in season and felt natural to use as a custard,” Becerra says, noting that the concha was inspired by the flavors and environment of the Northwest. “We wanted the concha to visually resemble the rocks of the sea. That is where the black sesame came into play. We added a bit of seaweed to the sugar crumb to pull out a bit more oceanic flavors.

Becerra adds that using fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients has been standard in kitchens she’s worked in. “Applying those same principles to Mexican cooking and baking just feels natural,” she says.—such as a cafe de olla concha based on the flavors of spiced Mexican coffee—and says that by using traditional flavors “such as blue corn, jamaica, salsa macha, and more, panaderxs continue to put pan dulce in a league of its own.”, takes inspiration from seasonal flavors and her heritage too.

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