Wanze Song first garnered attention with her Dumpling bag. Today, the designer’s utilitarian ethos defines a full fashion brand
Twice a year, designer Wanze Song invites a small group of friends and customers to her studio, located near the University of Toronto and above one of the city’s perennially favourite Italian restaurants. They’re there to look at the next season’s collection and for a chance to preorder their favourite pieces. Photos are taken of willing shoppers in full looks and, over the next couple of weeks and months, the images are posted on social media, shared and reshared.
There was also the Dumpling Bag. The crescent shaped style made of ultra fine nylon that’s been padded and pleated was introduced a year earlier, in 2021, and became an instant hit. “The Dumpling was, I think, a chance of luck. To this day I’m shocked by how well it did.” Song says. “It just existed as something I made for myself. And then friends here and there would ask, ‘where can I buy this,’ and it took off from there.
This coming fall, it was a quilted nylon that caught her eye, a technical fabric often used to make puffer jackets. Instead, Song has used it to craft a puffy gathered skirt. Equally inspirational was a crinkled metallic cotton in “Kelp” green or black that elevates an often-straightforward chore jacket and a coordinating pair of pants.
For Song, building a collection boils down to these types of basics. “I’m observing what people wear day to day and for men’s wear, guys just want a shirt and a pant,” she says. “At the end of the day, I just want to make wearable things that feel modern, refined and smart so that people feel good and can stand a little taller.”Switch gears. Give your brain a workout and do today's Daily Cryptic Crossword.
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