Following from Kiko's latest menswear collection in Paris
Held last weekend in a stately library on the top floor of Lycée Henri-IV – a posh secondary school in Paris –’s Spring/Summer 2023 menswear show drew on the “intergenerational pain” of the Ottoman rule of the designer’s native Bulgaria.
In 2017, the London-based designer was appointed creative director of Mackintosh’s 0001 label, debuted his first standalone collection, and teamed up with Asics on some understated trainers; this would lead to a rolling collaboration with the Japanese sportswear giant on a series of playful, acrid-coloured trainers that are so popular as to have become practically ubiquitous.
“I own a lot of Kiko – he thinks through the garments; material choices, sensory juxtapositions. His conceptual take on workwear is unmatched. It’s also just as dynamic in the realm of streetwear and in his work with Asics. His daring use of colour makes it all the more exciting each season. What’s it gonna look like? And more importantly, what’s it gonna feel like?
“I love the bravery, the unpredictability of each collection. It’s like every aspect of wearable garments are being challenged in some way” - Dozie Kanu“I somehow stumbled across an image from Kiko’s CSM graduate runway show; the model in the image was wearing this golden knit sweater with these hanging tassels, and had a blue work shirt wrapped around the neck like a scarf. And the black mask … man, that image was my iPhone background for some months.
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