Good enough to eat right out of the bag.
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In Beijing my grandparents kept a giant jar in the back of the fridge. It was crammed with misshapen greenish vegetables drenched in brine. When they brought it out and opened its lid, a wild, chaotic aroma perfumed the room: the pungence of long-fermented zha cai. It’s one of the most Chinese smells, and since I was a child it’s been one of my favorites.
Zha cai is the pickled stem of mustard plants. It originates in Chongqing, a municipality in the Sichuan area. Don’t let its odd knobbly humble appearance deceive you—a tiny bite of this preserved vegetable packs a powerful combo punch of tanginess and umami, and the texture is crunchy yet tender, not dissimilar to a cucumber. It varies in spiciness depending how much red chile paste is used in preparation.
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