Jean-Charles de Castelbajac says he had already sketched ideas when the Paris Archbishop’s emissary approached him to design the liturgical garments
Designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac displays a liturgical vestment for bishops to be worn at the reopening of Paris' Notre-Dame Cathedral in December, on Nov. 20 in Paris.Returning home, the French fashion designer began sketching ideas, imagining the monument’s reconstruction.
This duty, as he calls it, led to a collection of work crafted in collaboration with the esteemed artisans of 19M studio. The garments, often in thick off-white Scottish wool gabardine, blend his signature eye-popping pop-art aesthetic with a reverence for the cathedral’s centuries-old legacy with medieval touches.They undoubtedly break with the richly embellished styles associated with the cathedral’s near-900-year-old liturgical garb.
In 1997, he created the rainbow-colored robes worn by Pope John Paul II for World Youth Day in Paris, garments later enshrined in Notre Dame’s treasury as a relic. That connection carried a special weight during the fire.“As I watched the fire, I was thinking, ‘Are the relics burning? Are the relics safe?’ So my link was not just material. It’s really a strong spiritual link,” he said.
The vestments, which will be worn in liturgies permanently – forever, as Castelbajac put it – carry a sense of continuity with his past work. The designs are a variation on the pontiff’s robes, infused with Castelbajac’s signature aesthetic: bright, almost childlike hues that evoke optimism. Castelbajac’s creations have dressed pop culture royalty for decades: Madonna in her teddy bear coat, Beyoncé in sequins, Rihanna in a Donald Duck costume. Collaborating with Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, and Jean-Michel Basquiat, he fused art and fashion into a playground of exuberance.
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