Eccentric decor, Southern food and live music abound at this quirky Point Richmond restaurant. Here’s what it’s like inside.
Where one eccentric restaurant falls, another rises in its place. So it is with Black Star Pirate BBQ, the cult hit on Point San Pablo Harbor surrounded by Burning Man sculptures, that’s shutting down Nov. 27 – with a planned musical funeral procession down the jetty, no less – to look for a new spot.
Rest assured its proprietors’ new endeavor is just as quirky: Baltic Kiss in Point Richmond, which opened in August, is a funky club/Southern restaurant in a historic speakeasy and brothel that, one patron recently swore, is 100 percent haunted. By whom is uncertain. Perhaps it’s Jack London, who reportedly puttered around the venue back when it was the Baltic Tavern. But it must be a fun-loving ghost, as that’s what the Kiss is all about.
Chef Tony Carracci and his partner, Miss Suzie, who some might remember handing out free beer to long lines at Black Star, have done the space up proper with reams of rainbow foil, Japanese lanterns and at least a dozen disco balls. It’s a party in the front, with bands playing rock, blues and zydeco, and business in the back “Voodoo Lounge,” where Carracci, whose family hails from New Orleans, serves comfort food like blackened redfish, chicken and waffles and pies… so many delicious pies.
Miss Suzie, left, and her partner, owner and chef Tony Carracci stand on the stage at their Baltic Kiss restaurant and music venue in Point Richmond. Any concerns that this might be a simple dive joint are dispelled by the professional kitchen hidden beyond the bar. Some Southern stalwarts might grumble over certain nonstandard things on the menu, like a proliferation of Caribbean flavors in rice and pasta dishes and veggies that lean toward al dente.
Fried chicken consists of a buttermilk-marinated thigh pounded into a crunchy Frisbee with tangy-sweet glaze. It rests on a fluffy waffle that tastes more breakfasty than it should, until you realize it’s studded with bacon. The smothered pork chop is oven-tender with melting layers of fat, served over cheese grits dripping with grilled-onion gravy; it’s saved from pure decadence only by some crunchy green beans.
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