Required reading for your fashion education.
Few people have played such a major role in avant-garde fashion over the last 30 years as Martin Margiela. His work has inspired countless designers. Raf Simons, who saw Margiela’s iconicshow in 1989, has confessed that it inspired him to shift directions from interiors to fashion. As Marc Jacobs said in 2008: “Anybody who's aware of what life is in a contemporary world, is influenced by Margiela.
“Many say that fashion has a short memory as it is obsessed by actuality and novelty. But some recent exhibitions about my work exemplified the opposite,” he said. “Again, my homeland Belgium was the first to honour my work at the MOMU Antwerp, and then my adoptive city Paris followed with two more, at Palais Galliera and Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
He convinced her to go to a casting call for designer Dirk Van Saene, one of the Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela saw the resulting shoot and the rest is history: Kristina moved to Paris, rented a tiny apartment and started to work with Martin. Famously Martin Margiela’s first job in Paris was working for Jean Paul Gaultier, who has called him the best assistant he ever had.
“I remember his first show very well -- mostly because I couldn’t attend it, as I was having my first baby on that day! I watched a video of the show afterwards, saw the clothes in his showroom and didn’t know what to think of the collection: was it beautiful or ugly? Margiela cut jackets with very narrow shoulders and sleeves, at a time where everybody else showed jackets with wide power shoulders. His wide trousers had pre-made knee shapes in them and the seams were raw and unfinished.
"He was an artist. In his refusal to communicate about his designs -- his clothes told his story. He influenced the way that I think about fashion enormously.”Demna Gvasalia had his first job after graduating from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts at Maison Margiela in Paris. He is now one of the most lauded designers working, the creative director of Balenciaga and at his own label VETEMENTS, where he has constantly paid tribute to the energy and spirit Martin instilled in him.
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