Huaraz is where some of the best climbers go to push boundaries, but also offers more accessible climbs, treks and activities nearby
It’s difficult to comprehend what it means to be alone until you are truly alone. I felt it after the bus pulled away from Puente Ulta, or Ulta Bridge, in Huascarán National Park , eight hours north of Lima , in the heart of the Peruvian Andes.
I felt the cool, moist air on my skin as I admired the Andean peaks looming ahead, their upper reaches shrouded in dark clouds. Glaciers spilled from the hidden slopes like slow-moving magma oozing down the flanks of a volcano. I took one last glance at my map and started walking, leaving the desolate road – my only lifeline to civilization – behind.
Huaraz is known as “the hiking capital of Peru,” and its downtown is full of restaurants, cafés, bars and outdoor gear shops surrounding small parks and squares. Quechua women, clad in colourful traditional dresses and brimmed hats, peddle wool beanies and knick-knacks on the sidewalk. On clear days, several 6,000-metre peaks can be seen towering above the city, accenting the skyline.
“Everybody used to go and walk on the glacier, but they don’t let people on it anymore,” Bartle said. The solitude was unlike anything I had experienced – I wouldn’t encounter another human until the third and final day. Eventually, I reached a flat perch overlooking an alpine lake tucked between the still-concealed peaks. A steady snow had begun to fall, so it only made sense to call it quits for the day and set up camp.
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