Bill Addison names his favorite places for Vietnamese sandwiches.
Casey Felton and Armen Piskoulian introduced their modern riffs on banh mi at Smorgasburg L.A. before opening two permanent storefronts in the last couple of years. Banh Oui, on Cahuenga Boulevard, focuses explicitly on banh mi. Chicken liver pâté enriches a chicken meatball variation; mint among the usual cilantro and scallions adds piercing grace notes.
Banh Mi Saigon 168 was one of several places I noticed offering the familiar baguette as well as the less-common roll. I asked Andrea Nguyen, Vietnamese food expert and author of “The Banh Mi Handbook,” for insight. “My dad, who grew up in northern Vietnam during the 1930s and ’40s, regularly ate fist-size, round-shaped banh mi rolls sold by street vendors,” she said. “After he migrated to southern Vietnam in the 1950s, he didn’t see the round rolls in Saigon, where we lived until 1975 when we fled for America. Southern Viet banh mi featured baguette-shaped bread.
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