Benihana and the evolution of how Japanese culture is perceived in America.
Sho Spaeth has worked in publishing and media for 16 years. Prior to joining Serious Eats, he worked at The New York Times for a decade. Sho has written for Time Magazine, The New York Times, The Baffler Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler, among other publications.It isn’t the food that does it for me; not the USDA Choice steak and certainly not the chicken .
No, it’s the bare, brutal honesty of the whole experience. I don’t just mean the upselling is as clear as the bland onion soup served with your meal.
Of course, Misono cannot claim to have invented the griddle, which is almost as old as fire, and the idea that cooking steaks for the occupying American forces constitutes the creation of a distinct style of Japanese cuisine seems absurd on its face. Also, to get a bit more technical about it, teppanyaki is not typically placed in the category of yoshoku, or Western-influenced Japanese food, like tempura, say, or tonkatsu.
He was a character, a person about whom people say “he was larger than life,” whatever that means.
Since Benihana doesn’t seem to me to actually be guilty of appropriating Japanese culture, what I find more interesting is how the chain clings to the faux-Japanese stuff, and what that says about the way Japanese culture is viewed by many American diners.
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