‘Drunk in China’ Review: The Proletariat’s White Wine

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‘Drunk in China’ Review: The Proletariat’s White Wine
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Book Review: Some say it takes 300 shots to learn to love baijiu. Beijing loves it so much it recently spent three times its defense budget on the drink.

Newcomers to China are usually horrified by their first encounter with baijiu, the fiery spirit consumed at banquets and family dinners, typically comparing it to jet fuel, paint stripper or drain cleaner. Even long-term expatriates often shudder at the stuff. So can foreigners learn to love baijiu? Derek Sandhaus proves it is possible. But it takes some work, as he describes in “Drunk in China.”

A Mandarin-speaker and the trailing spouse of an American diplomat to China, Mr. Sandhaus sniffs his first glass of baijiu and compares...

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