Driving north is the best way to see a beautiful part of Canada
The easiest, and the worst, way to get around Canada is on an airliner. Want to see Cape Breton? You’re a dozen hours and a thousand bucks away. Feel like going to Montreal? Five and maybe a little less. It’s simple, expensive and boring.
Canada’s North is impossibly vast. Anything below the 60th is “southern Canada,” but the truth is that, in a straight line, Yellowknife is 600 kilometres closer to Saskatoon than Alert, the world’s northernmost community, inhabited by the military and government scientists. There is the seemingly endless forest, both a place you pass by but also a hive of logging activity. Then there is the strange emergence of fertile agricultural land near High Level, a Saskatchewan-esque enclave at the very top of Alberta. And then there is the gradual shift to the sparse, rocky landscape of the NWT, where friends told me the speed limit is “as fast as your car will go because there aren’t any cops, but don’t hit a bison.
Yellowknife and the surrounding area brought out the best in me, a try-anything sense of adventure that led to long hikes and a fly-in fishing trip where the pilot’s response to a question about satellite phones was, “You wanted a wilderness adventure, here it is” before getting into his De Havilland Beaver and taking off, leaving us with a boat, a case of beer, and not much else.
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