Does Anyone Else Think It's Weird That 'Oriental' Is a Perfume Category?

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Does Anyone Else Think It's Weird That 'Oriental' Is a Perfume Category?
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Do people not know where the term 'Oriental' came from?

This is slightly embarrassing to admit, considering I used to be a fashion and beauty editor, but I have to say, every time I’ve received press releases about new fragrances and their notes, my eyes would glaze over from the elaborate descriptions and fragrance world terms. Case in point: the description for Tom Ford’s F*cking Fabulous perfume .

Where did the term “Oriental” come from? In the fragrance world, “Oriental” is an official category of perfume that is distinguished by its warm, sensual notes . Some classic Oriental perfumes include Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Thierry Mugler Angel, Tom Ford Black Orchid and Chanel Coco Noir.

It’s not only an outdated term, but also a politically incorrect one—back in 2016, former U.S. President Barack Obama signed a bill eliminating all known uses of the term Oriental from federal law. At the time, congresswoman Grace Meng of New York, who sponsored the bill, referred to the term as “insulting,” “outdated” and “offensive” in an official statement. “Many Americans may not be aware that the word ‘Oriental’ is derogatory.

The great debate on Oriental fragrances Given the problematic implications of the term, it seems bizarre that it’s still being used to describe fragrances, right? But to traditional perfumers and perfume aficionados, no—especially since Oriental is an “official” classification in the perfume world. So what word should perfumers use instead? Will there be a push for a change in this classification term? Julianne Lee, a member on the board of directors at the Los Angeles-based non-profit Institute for Art and Olfaction , says although it would require a restructuring of fragrance wheels that currently use this category, it’s definitely possible.

El Masri suggests breaking down the fragrance family into different subfamilies and referring to regions, doing away with the all-encompassing term altogether. “There are huge differences between a fragrance created in Malaysia by Malay people than a Japanese one, obviously, so why not classify it as such?” she says.

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