For Dior's spring collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the fashion diplomacy of a fellow Italian, Renaissance queen Catherine de' Medici.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Catherine de’ Medici: two Italians in Paris, centuries apart, connected on the Dior runway on Tuesday.
Her spring 2023 collection, staged around a Gothic-style grotto made of paper cutouts by French artist Eva Jospin, sparked a dialogue between past and present that packed plenty of swagger. Think lampshade hoop skirts, lacy shirt dresses and elasticated corsets, slung over cargo pants with the same ease as a tank top.
The designer was fascinated with the way clothing contributed to the myth of the Renaissance queen, who is credited with popularizing high heels for women and brought to France an embroidery technique that still carries her name. The collection referenced those points both literally and metaphorically, with Chiuri deftly weaving in elements of thearchives. She worked curved heels, inspired by Roger Vivier’s designs for Dior in the ‘60s, into everything from multi-strap boots to wooden clogs that are sure to become one of the “It” shoes of the season.
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