Commission designers Huy Luong, Jin Kay, and Dylan Cao use corporate retreats for inspiration. Meet the must-watch young designers, here:
alma mater, they all made their way to Parsons School of Design, and then spent a few years working for established fashion companies. Cao, who had just quit his job designing accessories for R13, and Luong, whose forte is graphic design, met Kay, who worked as the senior designer at, at a birthday party in Chinatown. They began gathering every night over dinner to discuss how they could address Asian culture in a fresh and authentic manner. They knew they needed to make it personal.
Their suiting, inspired in part by Asian dads, leans masculine, and there is an abundance each season of animal prints and vegan leather. “It’s nostalgic, but not retro,” says Kay, noting as well the inclusion of playful details like chain straps that hang off a slip dress and trousers with fanny packs placed flush on the hip bone.
Working out of Cao and Kay’s apartment in West Chelsea, they begin each collection with a visualization of their muse in situ. For spring 2020, she was on the beach—not on holiday in the South of France, as tends to be the case in fashion, but on a corporate seaside retreat two hours outside of Ho Chi Minh City.
Shot by Luong for their lookbook on the pebbled shores of Long Island, the collection includes Commission’s signature strong suiting. This season, there are crisp white knee-length shorts and silk blouses made from a pink rose print designed by Luong to recall the chintzy upholstery of their childhoods. The collection also expands into more off-duty terrain with recycled terry cloth “souvenir” T-shirts and raw denim jeans, available on their website.
“Maybe it was before she was a mother,” suggests Luong. In any case, needless to say, the looks don’t require parental approval. While the guys regularly message their moms asking for photos, they do not solicit input. As Cao explains, “That would be too many opinions.”
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