This recipe works whether you want to pre-soak the oats for quicker-cooking overnight oats or just want to cook them up from scratch. It's still a simple bowl of oatmeal, but it tastes like a lot more.
An optional overnight soak speeds up cooking the next day.
"We end up tasting probably 40 odd bowls of traditional porridge," Bocquillon tells me, "and I can honestly say they are very different from one another." Competitors are exacting, she says. They often bring their own water, even internationally, and select their salt with equal care. Bocquillon, who's originally from France, says that as much as she loves sel de Guérande from her native land, it's too harsh for oatmeal.
As for O'Reilly, he tells me he's eaten the oatmeal made by all the finalists every year since 2006, and he's concluded "the winners have all stirred their porridge for the full half hour to make it very smooth and have boiled it down to get a smooth mixture, not too thick to stick to the spoon but enough to be able to pour it out rather than spoon it out."
Beyond that are rolled oats, which have been softened and par-cooked by steam and then rolled flat to decrease their thickness and increase their surface area, all of which speeds cooking. Quick-cooking oats and instant oats are simply variations on the rolled-oats process, but they're made even thinner for an even shorter cooking time.
I do, however, enjoy being a pedant about spurtles. If you're going to own one, you might as well own theone. Many websites today confuse the spatula-like Couthie spurtle, which is used for things like flipping oatcakes, with the dowel-like spurtle, which is the one meant for porridge.
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