Deserted beaches and quiet coastal villages are just two of the perks to hiking from St Ives to Penzance outside peak season
On a blustery clifftop above a turquoise bay, I meet the second-smuggest person in England. He’s beaming from ear to ear, raving about the beaches and the views. It’s the final day of his late-February hike around the tip of Cornwall, he tells me, and he’s barely passed a soul. I’m walking the same route the other way. “We’re so lucky,” he says. “So lucky.”
It’s no secret that Cornwall is one of the most dazzlingly alluring destinations in the country, but this fact is both a blessing and a curse. Travel down here as a holidaymaker and you’re assured an abundance of coastal scenery, pretty fishing villages and a sense of salty-aired, tousle-haired release from the nine-to-five. ‘Cornwall isn’t a destination’, state the gift-shop T-shirts, ‘it’s a way of life’.
Porthminster Beach is an award-winning Blue Flag beach just a short walk away from the centre of St Ives.St Ives on a late-winter morning is quiet. A dog-walker strolls through the historical lanes, whistling. Delivery drivers stand and chat. A couple of independent cafes are doing a brisk trade in coffee and pastries, but that’s about it. I’ve been on these same streets in high season, when to mass excitement someone spotted Kate Winslet leaving a restaurant.
It doesn’t take long to realise the hike is destined to be unforgettable. For almost two hours I pass no one. The path sticks mainly to the high cliffs, with seascapes below. Every cove is a rocky, raven-flown theatre of beach and boulders. Two Roman-nosed seals appear in the swell; noisy waves smash into huge granite outcrops; a kestrel hovers over the clifftop in the breeze, defying physics.
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