Consumers have begun demanding sustainability and transparency from their beloved multi-step skin care routines, seeking out what’s popularly known as ‘clean beauty’
Julie Thurgood-Burnett had no idea that her COVID-19 lockdown whim of starting a lavender patch on her husband’s family farm outside Toronto would turn into a small business. She had never been a farmer, but before long she had a bright purple field and a new hobby of creating lavender oil for her friends and family, who liked it so much she ran out.
Dale Rogers, a professor in the business school at Arizona State University who studies supply chains, gave the example of “sustainable” palm oil, an ingredient commonly featured in eco-friendly cosmetics brands. “There’s sustainability certification groups that will certify ingredients. So palm oil might be sustainably sourced, for example, but then it gets blended with other palm oil and you start to lose track,” he said.
Legislation in some countries can crack down on companies, making it illegal for them to source from suppliers that, for example, use forced labour or harmful chemicals. But environmental regulations lag behind, and profit motives and the promise of sustainable branding claims “align against greater disclosure,” Vakil said.
Swei said the best certifications on the market are fully transparent ones, but added that “climate change is moving supply chains all around the world,” making full transparency more difficult. Vakil agreed that extreme weather events fuelled by climate change have been disrupting companies more and more, especially those who rely on farmed materials susceptible to heat, drought, flooding and damage from hurricanes and wildfires.
“As much as I want for us, as a business, to be competitive with other businesses, it’s hard,” she said. “We don’t want to be a hypocrite is basically what it comes down to.”
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