Bitter is better.
. The memory of a ripe berry or tomato, like that of a lost love, lingers skeptically in the mind—was it real? Did it ever happen?
What I hunger for in these times is the promise of spring. Heck, I'll even take a blustery day, because even that offers hope of warmth and, well, a little pluck. So I reach for endive and chicories, with their bracing bitterness, their juicy crunch, and their reassurance that—hallelujah!—there are fresh, leafy vegetables in season after all.How to cook a chicory
Endive and chicories are slightly different from a botanical point of view—endive are annuals and chicories are perennials—but for cooking purposes it’s useful to lump all of them together. If you want them raw, salad is the way to go. Being a bitter veg, the best approach is to pair chicories with something sweet and something rich, and then marry it all with something bracing. For sweet, think winter citrus cut into supremes; shaved apples and pears; dried cherries and figs;
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