The research aimed to understand and recreate the striking yellow, black and blue-green color palette used in this sacred fiber art.
The Chilkat robes in the Alaska State Museum collections feature formline faces woven with yarn. The historic ceremonial garments combines once-vibrant yellows that have softened with age with warm black-browns and striking blues and greens.
The blonde inner bark of the Western hemlock is packed with a chemical called tannins, which produces a deep, reddish brown dye when applied to yarn. Dip that dyed yarn in a solution of copper or iron and it transforms into a rich black. Lily Hope dyes with Deb O’Gara and Kay Field Parker during a collaboration at the Alaska State Museum.
Blue has always been considered one of the hardest dye colors to make, but today’s weavers are exploring the possibility of making blue from chocolate lilies or a local mushroom called the bleeding tooth fungus, even as the formal dye research is wrapping up. The blues were not the only synthetic dyes in the historic weavings. Many garments wove natural-dyed yarns and synthetic-dyed yarns together. Chemical analysis reveals that synthetic blues were sometimes overdyed with natural yellows to create unique blue-greens.
Chilkat Dye Working Group Chilkat Robes Chilkat Weaving Ellen Carrlee Lily Hope Portland State University Sheldon Jackson Museum Wooshkindein Da.Áat Lily Hope
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