Among the rising stars of the Bay Area food scene are a Berkeley pastrami duo, an Indonesian baker in Danville and a Mexican chef doing octopus tacos in San Jose.
What is a rising star? In the food world, it typically means a young chef working his way through the tension-riddled ranks of Michelin-starred kitchens, one tweezered herb at a time. But for this collection of Bay Area chefs and bakers, we sought out emerging talent with promising futures in their own, singular visions of the American dream.
Het Say’s farmer’s market staples include a caramelized pork belly banh mi with tangy fish sauce pickle and savory puff pastries, steamed coconut rice cakes with coconut cream and housemade veggie Champa-style curry. People have noticed. In May, James Beard Award-winning chef Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s invited the Les to pop up inside his Moongate Lounge in San Francisco’s Chinatown.
Lubaba’s versatile croissant dough is the vehicle for many of her sweet and savory creations, while her cookies and breads incorporate some whole grain flours, like kamut. “Whole grain adds nutrition, flavor and that nutty aroma,” Lubaba says. “I have a lot of influence from seafood and the indigenous food of my people,” says Varguez, who has been cooking in South Bay kitchens, including Zona Rosa and Orchard City Kitchen, for the past 20 years., a scratch-cooking San Jose food truck he started with business partner Cenobio Mendoza. The two met while working in various restaurants up and down Santana Row. Almost overnight, they started popping up at breweries and other venues in the area.
“Our dream is to open a restaurant, so we can grow the same fresh ingredients and bring our culture to the table here,” he says.Open Tuesday-Sunday. Hours and locations vary but include noon to 8 p.m. most Tuesday-Fridays at Moitozo Park in San Jose. Find the weekly schedule at “It is so hard being away from home,” says Sadeghi, who studies psychology and human rights. When she’s not baking, she works at the Human Rights Center on campus. Did we mention she’s studying for the LSAT? “Cooking is what kept me going.”
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