John Winter Russell, Candide’s chef and co-owner, ceded the restaurant’s 93rd spot on the list to Palme, a Caribbean restaurant in Montreal
Lee-Anne Millaire Lafleur, who owns Palme with her husband, chef Ralph Alerte, had no prior notice of Russell's actions.Richler is firm in his belief that the list reflects kitchen demographics, and wonders if part of the problem lies with chefs who hire and train their own kind. “I don’t create the restaurant industry, I merely report on what’s there,” he says. Russell says his restaurant doesn’t follow the pattern: “There is no hierarchy.
Lafleur describes herself as a visible minority and Ralph is of Haitian descent; both are familiar with isolation. Alerte has few Black colleagues and is acutely aware of how important it is for young Black cooks to see themselves in him. Lafleur refers to the local chefs on the list as the “club.” When asked if they are ever invited to participate in local food events, her response is, “no.” In the three years since opening, they have been invited to one local food event, Martinique Gourmande.
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