PARIS (AP) — Olivier Rousteing opened Balmain’s Wednesday show at Paris Fashion Week with an audacious angular micro-gown — a glittering number featuring...
with an audacious angular micro-gown — a glittering number featuring peaked shoulders, humped hips and a massive clasping hand motif. It was clear from the start: this season’s Balmain was not going to be a study in subtlety.
That said, there were moments of pure fun and theatricality, such as a cream skirt with a 3D face peering out, a delightful nod to Rousteing’s penchant for surrealist humor. This playful audacity keeps the Balmain faithful coming back, even when some pieces falter under the weight of their own excess. Rousteing’s balancing act between bold experimentation and structural precision remains his triumph and Achilles’ heel.
Di Felice’s style lies in his ability to evoke a sense of intimacy without jumping on the “naked dressing” trend, which has been the talk of the fashion world. Instead, he stays true to his slyly-coded version of Parisian chic, subtly provocative without being over the top.dared to walk the tightrope between innovation and heritage.
For all its elegance, the collection echoed familiar critiques of Van Noten’s recent works: a tension between spectacle and subtlety, where the drama of their presentation can occasionally overshadow the clothes themselves. Yet, as the pieces paraded down the runway, each garment — whether steeped in nostalgia or pushing the boundaries of modern design — proved Van Noten’s guiding philosophy: style over fashion.offering was a paradox.
Nicolas Di Felice Paris Fashion Week Balmain Dries Van Noten Courrèges Di Felice Van Noten Collection Futuristic World Minimalism
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