The BALENCIAGA spring 2022 collection is a thought-provoking play on what is real and what isn’t, and where technology has messed with our heads.
The Hacking Project between Gucci and Balenciaga rolls on, with Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia swapping Gs for Bs in the Florentine house’s iconic diamond monogram — and adding a Magritte-esque touch by gleefully vandalizing one weekender with the tag “This Is Not a Gucci Bag.”
The spring collection is a thought-provoking play on what is real and what isn’t, and where technology has messed with our heads. Artist Eliza Douglas, and clones of her, model all 44 looks for women and men in a gripping, yet disquieting runway video by Quentin Deronzier.
According to Gvasalia, the clones are a critique on fashion’s obsession with trends and “hero” items, which diminishes individuality, while the hacks on Gucci were a giddy, Kering-approved commentary on counterfeiting and the don’t ask, don’t tell practice of appropriation so widespread in fashion.
Which left the stage for the Balenciaga clothes, all of which are 100 percent real and heightened expressions of Gvasalia’s obsessions — oversized silhouettes, puffers, hoodies, trenchcoats, floral dresses and tracksuits — this time all buffed up to relay a modern type of elegance exemplified by his sexy bustier and trousers, done up in sweatshirt material, and hulking down jackets with jutting, face-framing collars.
The show opened with what resembled mourning garb and gradually cheered itself up with candy-colored Crocs, a sweatshirt featuring the Simpsons wearing last season’s Balenciaga, clutch bags resembling fast-food packaging, and a fishtail finale gown that’s a ringer for the one Divine wore in “Pink Flamingos” in 1972, though done up in stretch velvet.And it’s — fingers crossed — his last hurrah with haute technology, which became integral to his creative expression during the pandemic.
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