'The suited and booted clients, the sun setting over Paris, the caterers passing around trays of juice, champagne, and Diet Coke.' Thom Bettrdige breaks down Pharell's vision for Louis Vuitton Men’s SS 2024.
Paris looks cutest from the Seine, all Neo-Classical with quays blocking one’s view from any unpleasantry on the street. Maybe that’s why the PR who invited us to the Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring-Summer 2024 show insisted that all us press people, influencers, and other non-famous fashion denizens arrive at Pont Neuf by a pre-arranged boat, even though the bridge is more conveniently accessible by any other mode of transport.
Standing on the Pont Neuf on this particular evening you got the feeling of living in a planned reality—an LVMH sequel to. The view was too perfect, the weather almost pre-ordained. Above us on the bridge towered three colossi: the relatively newly opened Cheval Blanc Hotel , a massive statue of Yayoi Kusama, and of course the Louis Vuitton headquarters at 2 Rue du Pont Neuf.
They finally got us to sit down. It grew dark. The show erupted from the north and flowed southward toward the Rive Gauche. It started with lots of camo, an apt choice considering the conceit of a giant military procession. But here’s our first riddle: What exactly does camouflage mean in the happy-go-lucky universe of Pharrell Williams? It’s definitely not about war, and no one was blending in.
The next chapter opened with Pusha T and his more elusive brother No Malice of Clipse. It was, in a sense, the act that gave birth to Skateboard P himself, but also vice versa. In my notes, I have this down as the “Baby Medici” movement of the show. This sense of youthful opulence is best encapsulated by Look 42—a tweed short-suit topped with an extra-large beanie adorned with pearls rooted with a fat pair of diamante snowboard boots.
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