At Paris Fashion Week, a Play on Clothing as Armor

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At Paris Fashion Week, a Play on Clothing as Armor
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Feeling a sense of power in your clothes isn’t about covering up, shows Yohji Yamamoto.

Before joining the Cut in 2015, she was fashion critic at the New York Times from 1999 to 2014.Left to right: Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, LoeweReviews, trends and what’s happening on-and-off the runway.Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: OWENSCORP, Getty Images, Loewe

Yohji Yamamoto’s show last night in Paris could be broken down into five parts that add up to the same point, a point few designers know how to get to.

In the context of the Paris spring shows, you could be forgiven for thinking those final dresses had all the charm of a prison matron’s uniform. But Yamamoto, who turns 80 next week, expressed a different idea with this magisterial collection: Feeling a sense of power and protection in your clothes isn’t about imposing silhouettes or being covered up or flaunting provocative decoration. Protection is actually not being aware of your clothes. That’s what Yamamoto conveyed.

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