Never before has Galliano’s narrative been so complete, nor so sublimely communicated to his audience, as in his Autumn/Winter 2022 Maison Margiela presentation, writes Alexander Fury
Across his entire career, Galliano has couched his collections in narratives – his graduation collection was inspired by Les Incroyables, dandies of the French Revolution, “ripping down aristocratic curtains, and turning them into waistcoats.” Those stories only spun ever-more complex webs of narratives, taking in Russian processes fleeing through forests, Freudian families exploring their sexual secrets, and collections as biopics of Empress Sisi or the Marchesa Casati.
Galliano is the great and powerful Oz of fashion storytelling, but never before has his narrative been so complete, nor so sublimely communicated to his audience, as in this Margiela presentation. Generally, those stories are a backstage shenanigan, something inspiring the dreams behind the clothes, rather than animating their movement before our eyes.
I have, honestly, very little idea of what was going on; the story was a Möbius loop, turning back on itself, repeating, figures jumping between reality and dreamlike sequences as gorgeous, nonsensical excuses for more incredible clothes.
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