At Laser Wolf, the Williamsburg-rooftop outpost of a beloved Philadelphia restaurant, the sweeping sunset view is secondary to the food: warm, pillowy pita; luscious short rib braised in passion-fruit amba; and more.
On a recent evening at Laser Wolf, a new restaurant on the rooftop of the Hoxton hotel, in Williamsburg, a friendly but authoritative woman zipped dutifully from table to table, pausing at each. “We clap for the sunset,” she announced. “Don’t panic.” For a moment, service seemed to halt. Bodies shifted westward as the collective gaze settled on an unimpeded view of the Manhattan skyline. Phones were drawn.
A Laser Wolf spread, including French fries with tahini ketchup and an array of salatim that comes with every order of kebab . With a vista like this, food and drink could easily be secondary, not to mention a total ripoff. At Laser Wolf—an outpost of the beloved Philadelphia restaurant of the same name , from the Israeli American chef Michael Solomonov and the restaurateur Steve Cook—it’s the setting that feels negligible. The last time I had eaten at a Solomonov-Cook restaurant was in 2018, just before they closed a Chelsea Market location of Dizengoff, their Philadelphia hummus counter.
A bowl of brown-sugar soft serve with pistachios and cherry preserves is also included with any kebab.are uniformly excellent, a roulette with only lucky slots: creamy white gigante beans strewn with torn Castelvetrano olives; a surprising, refreshing combination of diced pineapple and shaved celery tossed in smoked-pineapple purée; earthy roasted mushrooms with ruffles of kale and a smidge of sour-cherry juice.
After an opener so complete, the adjective “main” doesn’t quite apply to the next course, which is not to say it’s not an event. Luscious, shaggy short rib is braised in passion-fruit, an Iraqi Jewish sauce traditionally made from pickled green mango, before its edges grow crisp over smoldering charcoal.
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