Since being appointed creative director, the designer has made a point to honor the founder’s vision while ushering in a new era.
Recently, at a dinner party in Paris, I was talking with an accessories designer at a major French fashion house about the trajectory of today’s emerging talents. “They are very good at function and utility,” she told me. “But they have lost all appreciation for beauty. If you want beauty in fashion, forget it.”
Alaïa was as much of a radical with his process as he was with his clothes. Most fashion designers are part-time showmen; Alaïa was a full-time artist who let his work do all the showing. He famously bucked trends and derided corporate culture, often working late at night as an old black and white movie played on television. Intimacy and connection were his keys to the outside world.
Mulier’s role at Calvin Klein was more commercial and market-driven than anything he’d previously experienced. The workload was intense, and generally consisted more of meetings than designing. “Talking, talking, talking, giving energy,” Mulier said. Every weekend, he would fly to Amsterdam to touch base with the company’s European office.
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