Lionel Boyce (TheMustacheMan) is riding high on a culinary television wave of his own, playing Marcus, the doughnut-loving baker on the FX series TheBearFX.
Columnist Jenn Harris joins your favorite celebrities to explore their go-to cuisines and restaurants in Los Angeles.He elaborates on his discontent on a bench outside the Serving Spoon restaurant in Inglewood, a foam container of salmon croquettes, French toast and scrambled eggs on his lap.
“I used to come here with my dad,” Boyce says in between bites of French toast. “This place always delivers. L.A. is so big and there’s not a lot of places where you have that like small, hometown feeling of knowing people at a place.” “I was nervous because it’s a top bakery, they deliver all these breads to places, they need to uphold that quality, and I’m like, I don’t know what I’m doing,” he says. “But I got the hang of it.”“I ate at Noma, and that’s really what kicked the door in,” he says. “The first dish is like deer brain. I’m like, ‘OK, the whole kitchen is looking at you, I’m just going to try this.’ It wasn’t what I imagined it to be.
Dulan’s is where Boyce tells people to go if they want soul food. Especially if they’re from out of town. The baked Swai fillet is both moist and flaky, just the way he likes it. The mac ‘n’ cheese is creamy, with enough cheese that it stretches when he pulls away his fork. He adds a little bit of the yams to the mac before taking a bite.“I like the mac ‘n’ cheese and the yams to touch,” he says. “It’s like the heavens overlap.”Pro tip: Try the mac ‘n’ cheese with the yams at Dulan’s. “I like the mac ‘n’ cheese and the yams to touch,” Lionel Boyce says. “It’s like the heavens overlap.
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