Jiayang Fan on Justine’s on Hudson, where the Filipino American chef Jeanne Jordan brings new life to heirloom tomatoes—with ginseng vinegar—and seductive heat to crab spaghetti, inspired by her childhood.
In a way, Justine’s—named for its proprietor, the daughter of the famous Upper East Side wine importer Neal Rosenthal—harks to a different era, when the economy was a little more flush and overt extravagance a touch less gauche. But, then again, in 2023 even an upscale bistro where bottles average around a hundred and fifty dollars feels, well, very 2023.
“When I was little, my mother was obsessed with everything ginseng in the Chinese grocery stores in New Jersey,” Jeanne Jordan, the restaurant’s thirty-four-year-old Filipino American chef, told me with a grin. “So I guess the ginseng vinegar drizzled down to me.” Occasionally, the commendable jeu d’esprit gets away from Jordan. The shrimp toast, delightful on the first bite, became edgeless too fast with its opulent bath of butter, Gruyère, and bacon.
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