Louis Vuitton captured the joyful verve of youth
In looking backwards, Ghesquière alighted on a universal theme: the idea of youth, tinged with nostalgia. A personal history that we all live, and perhaps want to relive. “A teenage fantasy,” was his own descriptor of a collection of clothes that evoked a gangly sense of teenage bodies. Garments seemed slightly too big or too small, a rapport with the form beneath that seemed in constant flux, either anticipating growth or outgrown themselves.
Which is perhaps why the show played out as a sequence of ‘gangs’, groups of models similarly attired, as if clad in the clothes of a subcultural clique, associating with their likes. They were typically atypical, in quintessentially Ghesquière fashion: a clutch of wide-cut pinafores, halfway between school uniform and panier skirts, crossed paths with butch, masculine-cut bombers shrugged over wide trousers. Mannish coats, wide-shouldered, were shrugged over tailored suits.
Vuitton is all about voyaging, of course. The models’ catwalk wound through centuries of art, a path that had itself been trod by travellers a hundred years before them. I couldn’t help but crack a smile and think of how many listless, disinterested teenagers have roamed the halls of that museum over the years, ignoring the art like the models did.
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