A search for exceptional Syrian-style shawarma leads to the San Fernando Valley

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A search for exceptional Syrian-style shawarma leads to the San Fernando Valley
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Two new shawarma restaurants in the Valley illustrate the saucy, pickle-laced greatness of Syrian-style shawarma.

Sides of ful medames , tabouleh , and hummus Shawarma.

What draws me to these new San Fernando Valley shops is how they deliciously exemplify the Syrian and Lebanese street-stand styles of shawarma. One keeps its focus squarely on the main event; the other diversifies its menu without losing focus on the centerpiece dish. In a more comfortable setting, Sincerely Syria mirrors the same, admirably basic menu, and my opinion about Kamal’s skills haven’t budged. The two shawarma options loom among gleaming steel equipment. Their form resembles overgrown pine cones, in two distinct, woodsy tones: one is a the mix of lamb and beef, referred to as lahme in Arabic, and the other is chicken, or djej.

Choose between hand-held wraps, or 12- and 24-inch “combo” versions that come with extra pickles and fine-enough fries. The more I eat Kamal’s food, the more I suggest starting with the smaller, fundamental sandwich to best appreciate the proportions. Once you calibrate your tastes, you can ask for customizations: Extra toum or tahini or pickles? A handful of fries in your chicken shawarma ? No problem.

It’s fastest when Kamal is around, but, more important, the quality is consistent regardless of his presence. I like the chicken with extra toum, though if I was eating only one I’d go for the juicy, spice-riddled lahme.Mother-and-son team Krstein Kantarji and Eyad Kawak came to Southern California to live near family after escaping the ongoing Syrian civil war, fleeing first to Lebanon.

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