It’s pure coincidence that Helmut Lang’s new, untitled exhibition is opening at The Journal Gallery on the eve of New York Fashion Week. Still, the timing has a poignant resonance.
on the eve of New York Fashion Week. Still, the timing has a poignant resonance. It’s been 15 years since the Viennese designer walked away from his label—and from fashion—but fashion will not let him go. It’s not just that there’s a brand bearing his name; there are endless, recurring nods to his work on the catwalks. The references speak both to the visionary quality of Lang’s designs, and to a seeming societal nostalgia for the 1990s and 2000s. Lang, for his part, is no sentimental lingerer.
“I am always interested in the human condition, and for me, that is an ongoing occupation and naturally implies change going forward,” he told me in a chat about his new work. “Both disciplines [art and fashion],” he said, “require full attention. Creating art full-time is entirely different from when you do it as a parallel practice and on occasion, as I did during my former occupation when I collaborated with other artists. The main occupation can only be one or the other.
Intentionally or not, these works are resonant with current issues prevalent in the digital age, such as surveillance, information access, and connectivity. “We are, in one or another way, all directly or indirectly dealing with most networks, independent of if you are aware of them or not, or even if you have the possibility or not to have a choice in the matter,” said Lang. With this exhibition, he reveals some of the ties that bind us to art, material existence, and the abstract.
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